India

India days by vanessa

Since returning from my trip, I've been asked to describe my experience in India. "Was it amazing?" Well, yes, and yet, a bunch of other stuff too. Perhaps it's my own frailty as a writer, but I don't know how to package a country that can't be captured in adjectives. There's a saying that "writing about music is like dancing about architecture." The same is true of India.

Here's what I can tell you: India is the boy you've been eating lunch with for years and then one day you look over and suddenly realize you're in love.

P.S. Every government should sponsor elephant rides.

India, Day 2 (kinda) by vanessa

I call this "Day 2 (kinda)" b/c really I'm on the same day here as my earlier post, it's just later. But if I were in LA still, it'd be a different day. See the problem?

Anyway, today was fun. Basically if you're a Westerner random guys want to take your picture. Dre and I were swarmed at one point by like 20 boys? men? asking for our photos. (I'd say I was flattered but if you saw our photographers you'd understand.) (Sorry. I know that's rude.) I posed for a few photos and afterward all I could think is that my head is out there on the internet somewhere w/ some naked girl's body photoshopped in. She better be hot.

Hyderabad is definitely not a tourist town. It's kinda industrial. Our hotel is a haven, out west of town. If you stayed in this hotel for your entire visit to India, you'd probably think that India is chock full of lollipops and puppy dogs. It's the kind of place that would make you feel guilty for being privileged. Not that I'm so privileged, but since I'm also not destitute and this IS India, I am aware of my fortune.

It's impossible to plan a trip to this country without hearing about the utter chaos that is the driving system. Somehow, motorists, cyclists, livestock, and even dudes in their bare feet are able to navigate the roads with frenzied aplomb. It's not uncommon to see families of eight piled into compact cars or four people hanging off of one scooter. Also, red lights are completely optional. I get where circus planners draw inspiration. This afternoon we embarked on a journey to see some really tall statue of Buddha. During the drive I nearly fell sick three times. When we finally arrived at the lake, we had all lost our appetite for standing in line or getting on a boat. We got back in our cars and went to the city bazaar.

Right away a boy of (purportedly) eight, Mohammed, befriended me and kept us all from harm's way by pulling us back when we were in danger of being hit by a car. (Mostly me since I am sorta oblivious to traffic.) Anyway, this bazaar held an arbitrary mix: I expected to see shoes being hocked, but amongst the shoes were also random masses of wares being sold in heaps: teacups, bras, fake flowers, wheelbarrows full of those strawberry cookie wafers. Which begs the question: who's buying this stuff?

"Honey, I'll be back soon. I gotta go to the market to get some fake flowers."
"Great, sweetie. Can you pick me up a pile of bras while you're there?"

In the center of the bazaar there's a sixteenth century mosque called The Charminar. It's great. If you're Indian, you pay 5 rupees. Everyone else pays 100. I tried to argue the difference out of principle, but in the end everyone was like, "Vanessa it's $2. Let's pay it." Okay, fine. Climbing Charminar is slightly less harrowing than climbing Il Duomo in Florence. Plus it smells like urine. I don't understand why you'd pee where you're praying, but maybe urinating is a sacred offering. (I know, my Anusara friends -- everything's divine.) After reaching the top and walking around for about three minutes, we descended. Get in, get out. We ARE Americans, after all.

From The Charminar we thought we'd shop the vendors a little. Walking around the streets is oddly exhausting. Maybe it's because of the amount of people and the noise, but by the time we got back to our drivers (yes! you get drivers here!), we all needed a nap. And food. Food first.

Our hotel had recommended a restaurant which turned out to be in a mall. Hyderabad, outside of the bazaar and the mosques, is Western in a Mexico-kinda way. In fact, that's what it totally reminds me of. Nestled amongst the shanties are also megastores and rental car companies and Departments of Clean Water. We got to the mall but the restaurant didn't open till 7:30. It was only 4. I'm not gonna lie. We eyed McDonald's. An English pub next door opened at 4:30, so we split up and shopped for 30 minutes.

When we met back up we shared samosas and french fries, drank WAY too much King Fisher, and tried to guess the names of the 80's bands playing during the endless stream of classic rock. I longed for something more cultural, but in a way, this gastropub's Westernized simulacra was a perfect cultural expression. It's no different than the kids in the mall wearing their painted flared jeans and Reeboks. This IS the evolution of their society. Is it any different than the Asian-inspired design that permeates the past decade of American architecture? I guess what I'm asking is, is cross-pollination such a bad thing? (I'll leave that boring gem up to someone else to debate.)

And now, here I am in my room. I just bought a book which I'm super psyched about called Indian Myths and Legends. Wait 'til I bust out some mad allegory on my yoga classes. It'll be great.

Btw, fried food sits like lead in the stomach. I totally want to go work out. But it'll have to wait since the time difference just hit me. Nighty night.

India, Day 1 by vanessa

I am officially in India. Hyderabad to be exact. After 16 hrs to Dubai, then another 3 and a half to India, then 1.5 hrs to get our luggage, and then 30 minutes to get to the hotel (super dope), we are here. It's now 7 in the morning, and of course I'm wide awake. I've heard that India is a slum but we are staying in a ridiculously posh pad. It's kinda zen. The kind of place where I feel like I should be getting spa treatments and having Indian boys feed me grapes or like, chickpeas, all day.

In case you didn't know, I'm here for work. Last year the small consulting firm I worked for was acquired by a HUGE Indian consulting firm. Dilbert anyone? Anyway, they've been kind enough to foot the bill for my world travels so I can't be too much of a dick. Dre is here too. (More about that in a second.) Our schedule requires us to work this whole week (which is gonna be a mug since I also have my regular job that I will be tending to) and then next week I'll be on holiday. Hav will be meeting us and we're going throughout Kerala and then travelling to the Andaman islands. (Google it.) I was the only person to not get my shots. I like to live on the edge. Actually, I guess I just don't believe it. There are 1 billion people here. You'd think that if malaria and hepatitis were legitimate scares, Bono would be over here holding concerts. So I'm not worried.

I figure I'll be blogging throughout my trip, in case anyone is still reading. (Alo, I know it's been a while, but well, stuff has been going on.) I'll start with the plane experience.

Basically, my new "friend" J picked Dre and me up and rushed us to the airport, where I spent the entirety of our drive on two conference calls. Then we boarded the plane and proceeded to drink our way through the 16-hr flight to Dubai. Somewhere in there we also took a Xanax. Dre was all worried about mixing prescription drugs and alcohol but since I spent my Oregon vacation last year w/ Jos and Leslie doing just that, I feel like I'm practically an expert in this matter. We were fine. The two of us snagged two flight attendant seats in the back of the plane and read US Weekly together. Then we played iPhone air hockey and Connect Four. Things were going swimmingly until Brandon-the-flight-attendant told us we needed to move.

Brandon: Ladies, we need these seats in case of emergency.
Me: But Brandon, there's no emergency.
Brandon: Yes, but we need them if there is. They're our seats.
Me: Okay, I get that. But how about if we move in the event of an emergency. That way we both win.
Brandon: I'm not gonna argue with you.

I HATE when that's how someone ends a conversation. Oh really, Brandon? You're not going to argue with me? Why? Because I outsmarted you? In your face, Brandon.

And then we went back to our respective seats, where I had to kick the sleeping grandma who had moved from her middle seat into my window spot from her perch. In your face too, grandma.

We finally landed in Dubai, which is like the Arab version of Vegas. I like how they have prayer rooms just after you drop a grand on Armani. I was making my way to a prayer room when I ran into Christine. She flew in from NYC, and was meeting us on the leg from Dubai to Hyderabad. We had work stuff to talk about which was not as fun as going to chill in a prayer room, but it was weighing on me so I made up my mind to visit my sacred airport lounge on my return flight.

On the last leg, two significant things happened: 1) I had the BEST airplane meal of my life mostly because I love curry, and 2) I realized that they should have designated bathrooms on planes. One for going #1, and the other for #2. As a patron, I should not have to follow a passenger who has been in the bathroom for 10 minutes. It's just f**ked up. Therefore, they should have separate bathrooms so for the efficient people, we can get in and out, no mucking around. For the remainder, you can take as long as you want (even though, EWWW, who would do THAT on a plane?) and not affect the rest of the people who desperately need to go after three mini bottles of wine and two bottles of water. Problem solved. There's no way to mandate it though, and so I bet the execution would be difficult.

Anyway, I'm here. Might finally be getting tired. More later.